photograph by Tim Robison

t The Buttered Biscuit, the bigger the biscuit, the closer to heaven. “We figured if we were going to have a place called The Buttered Biscuit, the biscuits had better be good and memorable,” says Olivia Vargo, the general manager of the Waynesville restaurant. “So we decided to make them large.”

No skimping here. Vargo says that the biscuits are about five or six inches across and four inches high, weighing between six and seven ounces each. Which is a pretty darn big biscuit. Some might call it a cathead biscuit, except that, despite the common use of the term to describe size — as big as Fluffy’s head — there’s more to making them than that. Here, the dough is rolled out and cut. But traditionally, cathead biscuits are drop biscuits, which means that they’re made from a moist batter and dropped from a spoon, resulting in a biscuit that has small tufts that resemble a cat’s fur. Most of the time, though, if a menu says “cathead,” it’s referring to a smooth-topped biscuit behemoth.

There are plenty of places to get your big-biscuit fix, but Smith Street Diner claims to have the biggest biscuit in Greensboro (and they sell T-shirts with the boast, too). The Biscuit Factory in nearby High Point offers softball-size biscuits. Over at Flo’s Kitchen in Wilson, the biscuits are almost as large as hamburger buns — the better to stuff them with savory favorites. So, who offers the state’s biggest biscuit? Well, that’s as hard to answer as which barbecue is best.

The Buttered Biscuit
1226 Dellwood Road
Waynesville, NC 28786
(828) 246-6446

Smith Street Diner
438 Battleground Avenue
Greensboro, NC 27401
(336) 379-8666

Flo’s Kitchen
1015 Goldsboro Street South
Wilson, NC 27893
(252) 237-9146

The Biscuit Factory
2103 Kirkwood Street
High Point, NC 27262
(336) 869-7217

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Debbie Moose is a food columnist for the News & Observer in Raleigh. Her latest cookbook, Southern Holidays, is part of the Savor the South series from UNC Press.