At the turn of the 20th century, most North Carolinians were more familiar with lunch counters and soda fountains than with delicatessens. Yet as the state grew and new cultural influences arrived, the deli became an indelible part of our culinary landscape — and it continues to evolve.
A W(ish) Come True
A Raleigh chef transformed an old-school soda fountain into a delicatessen that’s a little Jewish, a little Italian, and a little Southern. What pulls it all together is his winning personality.
The Miracle of the Oil
When cultures collided in one family’s Raleigh kitchen, a new food tradition — part Jewish, part Southern Baptist — was born. Two treats served each year for Hanukkah — latkes and sufganiyot, or jelly doughnuts — got updates. The Jewish husband was mesmerized. The Southern wife had a secret.