Halfway through the Sunday sermon, I’d start thinking about my lunch order at the cafeteria. As everyone bowed their heads, I prayed that the preacher wouldn’t talk too long as we shook his hand to leave. Thankfully, Irving Park United Methodist Church wasn’t far from the closest K&W Cafeteria, a staple at Greensboro’s Friendly Center since 1965.
At its peak, K&W Cafeteria had 35 locations in the Southeast, including one in Greensboro at Friendly Center (pictured), east of the original in Winston-Salem. Photography courtesy of Greensboro History Museum
My sisters and I would race to the heavy glass doors but knew not to run in our Mary Janes once we hit the tile floor. The view from our place in line was of men in their Sunday suits, women wearing church dresses and matching pumps, and children trying desperately to behave. Once jeweled hairnets were in sight, my senses came alive: The wall of hot steam warmed my face, the scent of salty, overcooked green beans drew me in for a closer look, and the sounds of the ladies’ voices asking, “Serve you meat? Tartar or slaw?” and “Bread, dessert?” made my anticipation swell.
My dad ordered the “eight-ounce with,” which was a chopped steak au jus with a dill pickle slice on top. Mom and I would get the fried fish with tartar sauce loaded with chopped onion, while my sisters enjoyed baked spaghetti or fried chicken with blue Jell-O. For dessert, I’d reach for the largest piece of egg custard pie, from which I’d only eat the custard. At the end of the line, the glasses of ice water, unsweetened tea with lemon, and sweet tea stood lined up in perfect order.
Watch as Lynn Wells prepares her Skillet-Fried Cod With Tartar Sauce.
The day I learned K&W was closing in December after 88 years of service, I thought of the employees who’d worked in the kitchen for more than three decades. When I re-create my favorites from the cafeteria line, I think of those ladies who served my family and me. I hope they know what a legacy they leave behind for all the Southern cooks who longed for lunch at the cafeteria on Sundays after church.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 4 servings.
2 pounds or 4 (8-ounce) fillets fresh cod
4 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons onion powder
1 teaspoon celery salt
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons lemon pepper
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 lemon wedges (for garnish)
Lay fish on cutting board and pat dry with a paper towel.
In a shallow bowl, whisk together paprika, onion and garlic powders, celery salt, kosher salt, and lemon pepper. Press both sides of fillets into seasoning mix and set aside on a plate.
To a large skillet over medium heat, add vegetable oil. Once oil is hot, carefully place fish into pan. Cook for 2 minutes, then use a fish spatula to flip fillets. Cook another 2 to 3 minutes or until fish forms a light brown crust. Drain fried fish on a cooling rack over a baking sheet and serve hot. Garnish with fresh lemon.
For the Tartar Sauce:
1 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons finely chopped onion
2 tablespoons dill pickle cubes or relish
1 teaspoon hot sauce
¼ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
½ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning
Add all ingredients to a bowl and stir until well incorporated. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 6 servings.
1 small head green cabbage
1 large carrot, peeled
1 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
Halve cabbage and remove core. Chop into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Working in batches, use a food processor to pulse cabbage 8 to 10 times or until finely chopped. Place prepared cabbage into a large bowl.
Cut carrot into chunks and place in food processor. Pulse until finely chopped. Add carrot to bowl.
In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, ground mustard, salt, and pepper. Whisk ingredients until smooth and creamy.
Pour dressing over cabbage and carrots; toss until combined. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 8 servings.
For the crust:
1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 stick unsalted butter, very cold, cut into small chunks
2 large eggs
1 to 2 teaspoons water, very cold
For the custard:
5 large eggs, plus reserved egg yolk from crust
1 cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1½ cups heavy whipping cream
1 cup whole milk
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg, plus more for sprinkling
For the crust: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt until well combined.
Place mixture in the bowl of a food processor.
Gradually add cold butter and pulse until consistency resembles peas. Add one egg and cold water; pulse until dough holds together when pressed between fingers.
Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface. Dough will be slightly crumbly. Flatten into a disc, then wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for 2 hours or up to overnight.
Remove dough from refrigerator and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes. Using a rolling pin, apply light pressure to the center while rolling away from you. Rotate dough and continue until crust is 2 to 3 inches wider than pie pan.
Carefully roll dough onto the rolling pin to transfer it into a 9-inch pie pan. Crimp the edges. Refrigerate until ready to bake.
Preheat oven to 375°.
Separate remaining egg; place yolk in one bowl and egg white in another. Beat egg white, then lightly brush it onto dough.
Place the pie crust on the center rack of oven and par-bake for 7 to 8 minutes.
Remove crust from oven and place on a wire rack to cool.
For the custard: In a large bowl, add the 5 eggs plus the reserved yolk. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat eggs until light and fluffy. Gradually add granulated sugar and continue mixing for 1 minute. Add salt, vanilla extract, heavy cream, whole milk, and nutmeg; continue mixing until consistency is smooth.
Pour egg mixture into par-baked pie crust and sprinkle top with ground nutmeg.
Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove pie from oven and cool on a wire rack. Once the pie has cooled completely, loosely cover with parchment paper and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving.
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