As I flip through my collection of faded, spiral-bound church cookbooks full of crisps, cobblers, and casseroles, I can almost taste the buttered cracker toppings, the comfort of condensed soups, and the richness of melted Velveeta — an ingredient that appears often in my mom’s collection from the ’60s. These recipes rekindle memories of potlucks in fellowship halls, casseroles after funerals, desserts at bake sales, and strong black coffee percolating in a church basement.

photograph by Matt Hulsman

The names of the cooks behind each recipe mean as much to me as the recipes themselves: Willie Mae, Beulah Scout, Earnestine Swain, Dottie Foster, Billie Smith. These are the names of women who fed the church, raised funds with heirloom sweets, and welcomed visitors and new members with a comforting bite. Fried chicken, baked spaghetti, cornbread, dinner rolls, and salads — congealed or otherwise — would fill tables, but would never encroach on the dessert-only display: meringue-topped pies, decadent chocolate cakes, cupcakes, fried hand pies, cobblers, and cookies to share.

Watch as Lynn Wells prepares her Chicken Pot Pie.

Church cookbooks are treasured time capsules and archives of homemakers, families, and communities who raised generations together. They hold memories of small talk, gossip, laughter, and conversations between adults shocked by how fast the children have grown since their last visit. They are artifacts to preserve along with the recipes and the names that fill them.

• Chicken Pot Pie
• Layered Lettuce Salad
• Rocky Road Cola Cake

photograph by Matt Hulsman

Chicken Pot Pie

Yield: 6 servings.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
1 medium sweet onion, chopped
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups chicken stock
½ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon poultry seasoning
¼ teaspoon ground sage
3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
4 cups cooked chicken, chopped
Salt to taste
1 package (2 crusts) refrigerated pie crusts
1 large egg, slightly beaten

Preheat oven to 350°.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add 3 tablespoons of butter. When butter melts and begins to sizzle, add celery and onion; sauté for 5 minutes or until celery and onion are slightly soft. Remove celery and onion from skillet and place in a bowl. Set aside.

To the same skillet over medium heat, add remaining butter. When butter melts, whisk in flour and continue whisking until butter and flour are well combined and mixture begins to bubble.

Increase heat to medium-high and add chicken stock. Continue whisking until thickened. Add heavy cream, pepper, poultry seasoning, sage, and parsley; continue whisking for 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce heat to low.

Add cooked celery, onion, and chicken to skillet and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning, and add salt if needed.

Remove pie crusts from refrigerator and let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes. Place bottom crust in 9-inch pie pan and press up the sides.

Add filling to the pie shell and cover with second pie crust. Seal and crimp the pastry edges. Cut two ¼-inch slits in the center of top crust to allow steam to escape while baking.

Brush beaten egg over top and edges of crust. Place pie on baking sheet and bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until crust is golden brown. Remove from oven and let rest for 20 minutes before serving.

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photograph by Matt Hulsman

Layered Lettuce Salad

Yield: 6 servings.

1 medium sweet onion, finely chopped
3 celery ribs, finely chopped
1 (12-ounce) bag frozen sweet peas, thawed
½ cup dried cranberries
½ cup chopped pecans
½ head red cabbage, finely shredded
½ head iceberg lettuce, shredded
1½ cups mayonnaise
1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

In a large glass serving bowl or 9 x 13-inch dish, add onion and celery to bottom of the bowl. Spread thawed peas over celery and onion, followed by cranberries, pecans, and red cabbage. Place shredded lettuce over red cabbage and press in slightly. Top with a layer of mayonnaise and finish with cheddar. Cover tightly with clear food wrap and refrigerate overnight. Mix layers together before serving.

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photograph by Matt Hulsman

Rocky Road Cola Cake

Yield: 10 to 12 servings.

For the cake:
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons dark, unsweetened cocoa powder
1 cup cola (not diet)
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ cup whole buttermilk
2 large eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ cups miniature marshmallows

For the icing:
⅓ cup unsalted butter
3 tablespoons dark, unsweetened cocoa powder
6 tablespoons cola (not diet)
1 box powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup chopped pecans

For the cake: Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9 x 13-inch pan with cooking spray and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, sift together flour and sugar.

In a medium saucepan, add butter, cocoa, and cola and bring to a boil. Pour hot butter-cocoa mixture over flour and sugar.

In a separate bowl, stir together baking soda and buttermilk. Pour buttermilk into cocoa mixture and stir to combine. Mix in eggs, vanilla extract, and marshmallows.

Pour batter into baking pan and bake for 45 minutes.

For the icing: In a large saucepan, add butter, cocoa, and cola; bring to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk in powdered sugar and vanilla.

Pour hot icing over cake; top with pecans. Cut into squares to serve.

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