Once I turn right onto Harkers Island Road and pass the piles of oyster shells and cottages of generations of fishermen, I’m just minutes away from one of my favorite places. I park my car and trek a short distance to the large grassy spot between the water’s edge and the loading dock to the Cape Lookout ferry. This has been my destination to unwind for more than 30 years. I pop open a chair and adjust my straw hat for a front-row seat to Mother Nature.
A week at the beach never feels like enough time to truly relax. As a chef, I’m always cooking for others and am fortunate to love what I do. Admittedly, I look forward to potluck dinners and, better yet, having someone else cook for me, especially while on vacation. That’s what my Down East spot is for: a drive to clear my head and a place so removed that my only choice is to relax.
Watch as Lynn Wells prepares her Crab Pie.
I lift my face toward the sun. The ocean water laps against the rocks while the seagulls gossip. Dreams of beachside dishes come and go: chilled shrimp; something with fresh, local crabmeat; and a refreshing bean salad. I walk over to the shallow edge of the water to dip my toes in. In these quiet moments, I’m amazed by this water’s ability to hold, feed, and calm us.
After a few hours, it’s time to head back to the condo where a kitchen and hungry guests await. On trips to the Carolina coast, everyone chips in when it comes to cooking. While I pickle shrimp, a relative makes the cocktail sauce. With helping hands, I’ll assemble a version of a crab pie I tried during last year’s visit.
On the drive home, my whole body feels lighter with inspiration from the day’s surroundings. I spot shad boats coming in, full of fresh catch, and think to myself, I can’t wait to get back in the kitchen.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 6 servings.
1 purple onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
1 lemon, deseeded and thinly sliced
¾ cup white cider vinegar
½ cup canola oil
¼ cup capers, drained
½ teaspoon celery seeds
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon hot sauce
2½ pounds medium fresh shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cooked until just beginning to curl
Fennel fronds (for garnish)
In a large bowl, combine onion, sliced fennel, lemon, vinegar, canola oil, capers, celery seeds, bay leaf, salt, peppercorns, and hot sauce. Whisk until well combined. Add shrimp and toss. Cover and refrigerate overnight, stirring occasionally. Garnish with fronds. Serve chilled.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 6 servings.
6 cups vegetable stock
2 pounds fresh, shelled butter beans, rinsed
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 lemon, zested and juiced
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
¼ cup fresh dill, chopped
½ sweet red bell pepper, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
To a large soup pot, add vegetable stock. Add butter beans, garlic, salt, and 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer and cover pot. Cook 45 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally until beans are tender. Remove from heat. Drain beans and discard liquid.
Place the cooked butter beans in a large bowl and allow to cool.
In a small bowl, whisk together lemon zest and juice, sugar, dill, red pepper, and remaining olive oil until sugar has dissolved. Pour dressing over cooled butter beans and add salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 6 servings.
1 small sweet onion, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 pound fresh jumbo lump crabmeat
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning
1 refrigerated pie dough crust, at room temperature
Preheat oven to 350°.
In a large bowl, add onion, celery, and flour. Stir until onion and celery are coated. Add crabmeat and gently toss, making sure not to break up crabmeat.
Place pie crust into a 9-inch pie pan and crimp the edges. Distribute crabmeat mix evenly into pie crust.
In a separate bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and Old Bay.
Slowly pour egg mixture evenly over crabmeat mixture. Place pie onto a baking sheet.
Bake for 50 minutes or until top is bubbly and crust is golden brown. Remove from oven and allow to set for 20 minutes before slicing.
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Each May, spring climbs nearly 3,000 feet to the seat of Alleghany County. Here, as the rhododendrons blush, a beloved mountain town welcomes visitors with its food, art, and flourish of color and creativity.
Brief but delicious, soft-shell crab season is cherished by diners as well as the folks who work around the clock to put these native pinchers on our plates.
When it comes to poultry, the best is raised close to home.
