Built in 1959, the observation tower at Clingmans Dome — reached via a 375-foot spiral ramp — offers views into Tennessee, Virginia, Kentucky, Georgia, South Carolina, and Alabama. photograph by Nate Bowery
Long before state lines divided the land, the Cherokee prayed for guidance on behalf of their community at the mountain they called “Kuwohi” — today commonly known as Clingmans Dome. Straddling what is now the North Carolina/Tennessee border, the 6,643-foot summit is the third-highest mountain east of the Mississippi and the highest point on the Appalachian Trail. On a clear day, the 360-degree view from the observation tower stretches for 100 miles, with glimpses into six neighboring states. American settlers called the mountain “Smoky Dome” because it’s often covered in clouds, but even on a “smoky” day, breathtaking views through the mist or above the clouds await those who make the climb.
Travelers entering the state from Tennessee at Newfound Gap might spot an elk. photograph by Nate Bowery
Drivers traveling up-mountain on U.S. Route 441 from Gatlinburg, Tennessee, ascend past scenic overlooks, through pine-oak woodlands, and into North Carolina’s fragrant spruce-fir forest at Newfound Gap. At 5,046 feet in elevation, this is the highest point on the road yet the lowest drivable pass across the Great Smoky Mountains. Where the North Carolina/Tennessee line crosses the parking area, visitors stand in duality: two states at once, high and low, here and there.
Travelers going past Cumberland Knob on the Blue Ridge Parkway are sure to find spectacular fall foliage. photograph by Revival Creatives
Cumberland Knob Recreation Area is the first North Carolina stop on the Blue Ridge Parkway for southbound travelers from Virginia. In 1935, President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps began construction on the nation’s first and longest rural parkway near Cumberland Knob. Two years later, this recreation area — with hiking trails, picnic tables, and a grassy field perfect for family games — was the first on the road to open.
Those who don’t want to hike to the Rich Mountain Fire Tower can drive up a winding gravel road off U.S. Highway 25/70, just under three miles from Hot Springs. photograph by RYAN KARCHER PHOTOGRAPHY
After emerging from a two-and-a-half-mile walk through the woods, hikers raise their gazes to the 46-foot-tall Rich Mountain Fire Tower, silhouetted against the sky. From 1932 to the 1990s, rangers watched for fires from this historic steel tower, until the widespread use of planes made fire detection more efficient. Without a caretaker, the structure fell into disrepair. In 2018, the Appalachian Trail Conservancy in North Carolina and Tennessee partnered with the U.S. Forest Service and other conservation agencies to restore the tower, which straddles the state line in Pisgah National Forest. After the necessary repairs — including a new roof, lightning rods, floors, and stairs — visitors can now climb the tower for panoramic views of Mount Mitchell, Tennessee’s Bluff Mountain, and nearby Hot Springs.
The majority of hikers along the 2,190-mile Appalachian Trail tackle just small sections, starting off from hiker-friendly towns like Hot Springs. photograph by Nate Bowery
Where the Appalachian Trail weaves between North Carolina and Tennessee for 220 miles, hikers commune with nature as they pass through several types of forest and stand atop six of the 10 highest mountains on the trail. Fall foliage comes early to the chilly, high elevations, where evergreen spruce trees contrast with the red, yellow, and orange leaves of oaks, birches, and sassafrases. As cool temperatures descend through the mountains, colors burst from sourwoods and hickories, making this trail one of the best in the state to see an extended fall season.
With 128 miles of shoreline — plus that of its islands — Lake Chatuge is among the largest bodies of water in the Great Smoky Mountains. photograph by RYAN KARCHER PHOTOGRAPHY
Divided almost evenly between the mountains of Clay County in North Carolina and Towns County in Georgia, Lake Chatuge is a recreational playground with shaded hiking trails and swimming coves tucked along the ragged shoreline. The stunning sunsets and blue-sky reflections in the 7,200-acre lake epitomize its Cherokee name, which means “beautiful.” Created in the 1940s by the Tennessee Valley Authority for flood control and utility power, the lake draws anglers for tournaments and pier fishing, where they seek the best catches of more than 30 types of fish, including trout, bass, crappie, and sunfish.
Upper Whitewater Falls cascades toward South Carolina. photograph by Tom Moors
In Nantahala National Forest, the highest waterfall east of the Rockies cascades in ribbons over stairstep boulders as it plunges 411 feet. The roar of the water and the awe-inspiring view from the main path only intensify for those who walk down 154 sturdy wooden steps to the lower platform. There, a top-to-bottom image of Upper Whitewater Falls is occasionally transected by rainbows as sunshine hits the rising mist. Without regard for defined state lines, the Whitewater River flows into South Carolina, where it drops over the 400-foot-tall Lower Whitewater Falls and continues into Lake Jocassee.
I-26 East Welcome Center holds a trove of information about North Carolina artisans. photograph by Tim Robison
Kathy West describes a welcome center as “the front porch of North Carolina,” where travel counselors greet visitors with Southern hospitality and provide travel information about all 100 counties. At the center that West manages, on I-26 at the South Carolina border, tourists learn about North Carolina artisans as they kick back in walnut rocking chairs so comfortable that they often ask to take them home. Families pose for photos with the spectacular quilted map of North Carolina, which includes 3D enhancements like a tiny woven basket created by Cherokee artist Juanita Wolfe. North Carolina’s nine welcome centers — including four in the mountains — have hosted more than 350 million visitors, encouraging each traveler to come in and stay awhile.
The 3D embellishments attached to the quilt at the I-26 East Welcome Center were made by artists who live in those locations and incorporated into the shape of North Carolina by Durham quilter Suzanne Yowell. photograph by Tim Robison
The New River, ironically the oldest river in North America, flows past the oldest operating store in Ashe County before heading north into Virginia. When the 1923 general store was threatened by larger chains in the ’70s, the owners decided to start renting out canoes. The result is New River Outfitters, now a fifth-generation family business offering canoe, kayak, and tubing trips from a nostalgic country store. Visitors can purchase vintage candy, an icy glass-bottle RC Cola, or a MoonPie, and rest at picnic tables on the riverbank as they watch the water peacefully pass by.
10725 U.S. Highway 221 North
Scottville, NC 28672
(336) 982-9192
canoethenew.com
Red Dog Bar Bistro opened in Piney Creek in 2019, later adding a West Jefferson location. photograph by Tyler Northrup
When neighbors asked Matt and Julie Milunic and Gayle Winston to convert an empty building near the Virginia border into a restaurant, the owners of the nearby River House Inn and Restaurant didn’t hesitate. They named the resulting Red Dog Bar Bistro after a neighborhood pool hall and hot dog joint that had once occupied the space. Now, diners enjoy beef and lamb from the farm across the street, an Appalachian twist on egg rolls, and beers custom-brewed by Laconia Ale Works in Sparta.
9531 NC Highway 93
Piney Creek, NC 28663
(336) 359-8000
reddognc.com
Diners at Creekside Market & Grill find classic breakfast and lunch options. photograph by Tim Robison
Three miles from the South Carolina line, customers at Creekside Market & Grill enjoy gem mining, art from both states, a rope swing over the Little River, and delicious food. Repeat customers and tourists leaving nearby DuPont State Recreational Forest stop for Southern-style family recipes prepared by Wendy Caughey — a self-described “GRIT,” or “Girl Raised in the South” — and her dedicated staff. After purchasing the business in 2016, Caughey maintained many of its traditions, including community music gatherings on the porch.
8960 Greenville Highway
Brevard, NC 28712
(828) 885-2810
creeksidemarket.bravesites.com
The Cherohala Skyway winds for 43 scenic miles through North Carolina and Tennessee. photograph by Emily Chaplin and Chris Council
The mile-high Cherohala Skyway rises above the clouds. Temperatures can drop as much as 20 degrees during the first 11 miles on the North Carolina side, as the road climbs 2,730 feet from Santeetlah Gap to Santeetlah Overlook. Along the way, the winding drive reveals breathtaking mountain vistas, shimmering rock-face waterfalls, and easy hiking paths. This National Scenic Byway, named for its route through the Cherokee and Nantahala national forests, curves past red and yellow mountain ash foliage before descending into Tennessee. What it does not pass is any visible sign of civilization — so fill your gas tank before heading out. Motorcyclists and sports car enthusiasts travel from all over the world to drive the Cherohala Skyway and the challenging Tail of the Dragon nearby, which boasts 318 bends and switchbacks in 11 miles.
On land that has been in their family for generations, Steve and Karen Thompson grow Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Petite Verdot, and several hybrid grape varieties. photograph by RYAN KARCHER PHOTOGRAPHY
After traveling the world as an Air Force and Delta pilot, Steve Thompson returned to the rolling pastures of his 93-acre family farm in Murphy, where his ancestors settled in 1820. In 2008, he and his wife, Karen, opened Nottely River Valley Vineyards, where they bond with customers over travel experiences and a love of wine. From the hilltop tasting room, guests admire the view into North Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee, and, in the fall, watch migrating sandhill cranes fly overhead.
1150 Old Culberson Road
Murphy, NC 28906
(404) 731-5906
nottelywine.com
This story was published on Sep 23, 2024
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