A Year-Round Guide to Franklin and Nantahala

Overlooking Courthouse Square in downtown Bryson City, The Everett Hotel and its guests embody the small-but-mighty spirit of Swain County. The historic boutique hotel, built in 1908 as the Bryson

Rosemary and Goat Cheese Strata

Overlooking Courthouse Square in downtown Bryson City, The Everett Hotel and its guests embody the small-but-mighty spirit of Swain County. The historic boutique hotel, built in 1908 as the Bryson

Smoky Mountain Immersion

Deep Creek in Swain County.

Overlooking Courthouse Square in downtown Bryson City, The Everett Hotel and its guests embody the small-but-mighty spirit of Swain County. The historic boutique hotel, built in 1908 as the Bryson City Bank, offers 10 guest rooms, each as laid-back as it is comfortable.

Steps from the Tuckasegee River, The Everett Hotel places guests in the heart of downtown Bryson City. Photography courtesy of Swain County TDA

“People come here to experience the quieter side of the Smokies,” Scott Mastej says, co-owner of The Everett. “There’s so much to do, but it’s a chill vibe. A lot of our guests are outdoor enthusiasts who want to have a home base in a little mountain town.”

Tucked within the Great Smoky Mountains on North Carolina’s western border, Swain County is a beloved fall destination for the same reason: Visitors have easy access to outdoor activities, opportunities for soaking up small-town mountain life, and scenic drives. As the days get shorter, here’s how to make the most of every minute on a mountain getaway.

 

Whether you’re hunting for a new outfit or want to attend an evening function to connect with others for a common cause, Humanité Boutique seeks to change how we shop. photograph by Cate's Compass

Peruse Downtown Bryson City

Small-business owners in downtown Bryson City nurture a culture that’s equal parts business and community development. When Erin Smith and her husband, Chad, moved back home to open Humanité Boutique, for example, Erin wanted to give her clientele a chance to “shop with a purpose.” In addition to the shop’s normal hours, Erin organizes monthly events that bring in groups to shop the boutique’s stylish clothes, shoes, and accessories, all while sipping wine and raising funds for a favorite cause.

At 169 Main Street, you’ll find gear and accessories to kick off your outdoor adventures … and refreshing rewards for when you’re through. photograph by Concord Creative

With a goal of making the outdoors accessible, Brett Hackshaw and Ben King opened Bryson City Outdoors, a shop with everything you need for hiking, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and camping adventures. Thanks to the baking chops of Ben’s wife, Brenae, it’s also your go-to source for croissants, morning buns, scones, and freshly roasted coffee to kick-start your morning adventure. From the same location, Liz Nance runs Bryson City Taproom & Beer Garden.

“It’s a really cool local hangout,” Mastej says. “Our guests love going over there because they can drink, shop, and swap stories at the same time — and there are great food trucks out front,” Mastej says.

Shop for unique decor, art, and books at One Twenty Main. photograph by Concord Creative

Just down the street, Ashley Hackshaw runs One Twenty Main, a studio gallery with a major following thanks to Hackshaw’s robust Lil Blue Boo Etsy shop.

For lunch, Mastej points guests to The Filling Station Sub Shop, a short walk down Everett Street. “I lived in Miami for a couple of years, but Barry makes a Cuban sandwich that rivals almost anything you can get on Miami Beach.”

 

Follow the Deep Creek Waterfalls Loop to check out three different waterfalls. photograph by Up N' Adam Adventures

Hike to a Waterfall or Panoramic View

In the heart of Swain County, just north of Bryson City and west of Cherokee, you can barely skip a rock without splashing a waterfall. If you’re looking for a refreshing walk that guarantees a cool, misty reward, plan to hike the Deep Creek Waterfalls Loop, a 2.4-mile loop with short trail connections to three waterfalls: Juney Whank Falls, Indian Creek Falls, and Tom Branch Falls.

As the leaves begin to change, hit the Appalachian Trail and take in views of Fontana Lake as you hike to Shuckstack Tower. photograph by Concord Creative

For a more strenuous hike that ends with spectacular 360-degree views, hop on the Appalachian Trail at Fontana Dam and hike to Shuckstack Fire Tower. With a 2,120-foot elevation gain, you’ll cover seven miles roundtrip — not to mention the 78 stairs to the top of the fire tower. It’s worth it: From the top, spin around to take in five mountain ranges, punctuated by a birds-eye view of Fontana Dam.

 

The Road to Nowhere Tunnel is a popular spot for hikes and scenic drives. photograph by Up N' Adam Adventures

Go for a Scenic Drive

Cruise along Swain County’s portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway, then select your next breeze ride. For a six-mile drive into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, hop on the Road to Nowhere (officially Lakeview Drive), and roll smack into the mouth of a 1,200-foot tunnel. On the way there, you’ll pass a Fontana Lake overlook and plenty of hiking trail access points. Take a moment to explore the tunnel once you arrive — on sunny days, there’s enough light to see — and appreciate the history of the road’s construction, which was forever halted in the 1960s.

Taking a drive to nowhere just might be the ultimate luxury — unless, of course, you want to trade your car for an open-air slingshot. This new experience offered by Polaris Adventures Outfitters lets you catch the mountain breeze as you zip down the open road. A cross between a car and a motorcycle, the low-profile, three-wheel slingshot is the answer for explorers who feel the need for speed. Check their website for nearby driving itineraries.

For all of the scenery with none of the responsibility, get your ticket to ride on the Great Smoky Mountains Railroad. From the heart of Bryson City, their historic train depot offers roundtrip rides past landmarks like the Fontana Trestle, through the Nantahala National Forest, and tickets for special events, like the holiday Polar Express Train Ride.

 

Keep your eye out for elk grazing in the valley of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. photograph by Concord Creative

Engage All Your Senses

Pack your binoculars for an early-morning or late-afternoon Cades Cove walk, accessible from the paved Cades Cove loop. A lush valley in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Cades Cove is known among wildlife enthusiasts as a home to elk, which were reintroduced by the National Park Service in 2001. Just remember to keep your distance (it’s illegal to approach an elk within 150 feet) and respect this majestic animal’s natural habitat.

Even if you don’t check “elk sighting” off your bucket list, a contemplative walk through the mountains yields its own rewards, Sarah Conley says, executive director of Swain County Tourism. “Listen to the rustling leaves and the calls of wildlife, feel the cool breeze on your skin, and take in the earthy scents of the forest floor,” she advises. “This sensory-rich experience can provide a profound sense of peace and well-being.”

 

Glamp in a luxury tent at Elk Hollow Resort. Photography courtesy of Swain County TDA

Sleep in Style

Rather than just a place to rest your bags while you’re out exploring, Swain County accommodations become an integral — not to mention memorable — part of the vacation experience.

Traditional mountain cabins, with their peaceful porches overlooking mountain landscapes and plenty of room for the whole family, hold a wide appeal. But so do one-of-a-kind alternatives, such glamping in a Harry Potter-themed tent, spending the night in a luxe safari-style tent, and sleeping in a creek-side train caboose.

Planning is half the fun; before booking your accommodations, take some time to peruse the options to find a resting place that’s fun and rejuvenating for every person and pet in your group.

 

Beyond the Polar Express, Bryson City transforms into a winter wonderland during the holiday season with the Smoky Mountain Christmas Light Spectacular. photograph by Concord Creative

Plan Your Holiday Return Trip

“The Polar Express starts the second weekend in November, and the week before that, the entire town transforms into a Currier and Ives print,” Mastej says. “All the businesses are decorated. There’s a real Norman Rockwell-esque, small-town kind of feel.”

The word is out, adds Conley, who advises planning a year in advance — not just for the Polar Express, but also for the Smoky Mountain Christmas Light Spectacular, where drive-through giant LED displays can be viewed from the comfort of your car.

Don your festive pajamas and cozy up in your car as you cruise through the illuminated display.   photograph by Concord Creative

Mastej says it’s not unusual for families dressed in matching flannel PJs or bathrobes to come through the Everett’s lobby — the result of 365 days’ worth of anticipation for a magical holiday experience. “When folks come to town to ride the train, they really get into it.”

Ready to plan your fall adventure to Bryson City and the surrounding Swain County area? Click here to map out where to hike, explore, and more during your Smoky Mountain retreat.

This story was published on Sep 10, 2024

Robin Sutton Anders

Robin Sutton Anders is a writer based in Greensboro.