Editor’s note: This article originally appeared in the January 2011 issue.
Once Barry Campbell starts talking about Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen, it’s hard to get him to stop: “Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen is, quite simply, one of the absolute pillars of gastronomy in Chapel Hill. It is a shrine to the perfect Southern breakfast food, the biscuit.”
No, he’s not related to the owner: “I have no affiliation with SBK other than being a delighted customer,” he says. Then, he’s back on topic. “Their biscuits are the Platonic ideal of the form. The consistently perfect, slightly crisp outer crust yields to a light, fluffy, almost creamy interior. Hot from the oven, they are manna from heaven,” says Campbell, an information technology business strategist and communications manager.
“As far as ambience, forget it,” he says. “There is none.”
Every Saturday, promptly at 7 a.m., Campbell; his wife, Carrie; and their two dogs, Chow Bella and Josie, load into the car for a biscuit run. “At that hour on a Saturday, there’s never a line of cars, but we’re rarely the only ones there,” he says.
Sunrise Biscuit Kitchen
1305 East Franklin Street, Chapel Hill
The sausage biscuit or the fried-chicken biscuit.