“Watch out for bears.” My mom’s cautionary voice always echoes in my mind whenever I drive the stretch of U.S. Route 64 leading through Dare County’s pocosin, canal-riddled mainland. The peninsula is bordered by Alligator River and Croatan Sound, and, for the most part, is fantastically wild. Moonshiners once kept stills in the unincorporated community of Buffalo City, and the area is now largely classified as the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. (And even farther out, near Stumpy Point, the Air Force maintains the Dare County Bombing Range, so you might hear the occasional boom in Manteo or the refuge, but that’s a story for another day.)
Needless to say, wildlife thrives in this isolated swathe of temperate wetland, and while the name suggests reptilian fauna, you’re more likely to encounter furry and feathered species instead. Including black bears (click here to read about our writer’s encounter with the refuge’s ursine residents). In fact, Dare County locals and visiting wildlife enthusiasts like turning off onto Murphy Peterson Wildlife Drive in the evenings to see how many of the animals they can spot. But during visiting hours (half an hour before sunrise and half an hour after sunset), you can immerse yourself in this natural space and explore by foot, car, kayak, or open-air tram. Here’s where to get started:
Some of the largest black bears in the world are found in eastern North Carolina. Many other predators, like alligators and red wolves, make their homes at the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. photograph by Neil Jernigan
The wildlife refuge offers numerous themed tours, with options for various ages and abilities, throughout the week to help acquaint visitors with different sides of the refuge and its residents. This part of northeastern North Carolina is home to the only wild population of the endangered red wolf, and you can sign up for the Red Wolf Tour to learn about this singular species and drive alongside rangers as they lead you through its territory.
If you’d prefer to let someone else take the wheel, you can reserve seats for the open-air tram tour or a sunrise/sunset van tour. If you’re ok with spritzing on some bug spray and a bumpy ride, try the tram tour around the refuge. For some creature comforts, the enclosed van tour offers an experience customized based on what the group is interested in seeing. (Bald eagles? Red wolf families? Bears?) Van tours happen from 7 to 9 a.m. and again between 6 and 8 p.m. so that you have a better chance of spotting animals during their more active hours.
You can also broaden your sightseeing when you explore by the refuge’s waterways. Paddle alongside guides through the backwater canals, keeping your eyes peeled for turtles, various warblers, water birds, and alligators.
In Dare County, the Sandy Ridge Trail makes the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge — home to barred owls (left) and many other species — accessible to visitors like Tim Faulkner. photograph by Neil Jernigan
In the cooler months, Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge is a destination where serious birders go to see migratory birds that nest and winter there. Because it’s directly across the sound from Alligator River Wildlife Refuge, it’s unsurprising that many species also find refuge and more sheltered conditions on the mainland side, including flocks of snowy white tundra swans. This special time of year is ushered in by the annual Wings Over Water Wildlife Festival, which involves special programming and expert-led events at both wildlife refuges. If you visit in the warmer months, keep an eye out for barred owls, bald eagles, and migrant warblers.
Visitors are most likely to spot bears in the early morning and evening hours, when temperatures are cooler. photograph by Neil Jernigan
The Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge is home to one of the largest populations of black bears in eastern North Carolina and also the eastern United States. The Bear Necessities program is a quintessential experience for visitors to the refuge. The free event kicks off at 5 p.m., and following the 30-minute presentation, visitors can drive along the roads through the refuge, keeping their eyes peeled for bears awakening for their early-evening activities. Even if you don’t make it to the program, you can gather with the other evening spectators on Murphy Peterson Wildlife Drive and wait for a bear sighting. Bring binoculars and bug spray.
If you prefer to explore at a slower pace, follow along the wildlife trails and take a moment to reset in this tranquil setting. The Creef Cut Wildlife Trail and Sandy Ridge Wildlife Trail are both a little more than a half-mile long, flat, and good for birding and other wildlife watching. For more length, try the 1.2-mile-long Gateway Trail.
Those arriving with a canoe or kayak strapped to their cars can check out the refuge on its more-than 15 miles of paddle trails. Park your car off Buffalo City Road at the launch or at Milltail Road where it meets the creek. Don’t worry about paddling into the refuge’s depths — the trails are color-coded and range from 1.5-mile loops to 11-mile-long roundtrips.
Mark our words: Whether they nod to North Carolina or were penned by its residents, these notable, quotable passages remind us of the power of speech inspired by our state.
When one stream flows into another, the two chart a new course for the future — together.
When the weather outside is frightful, one chef serves loved ones dishes so delightful.
A historic Rose Bowl pitted Duke University against Oregon State in Durham. Then, in the dark days of World War II, those same football players — and a legendary coach — joined forces to fight for freedom.
