Emily Wallace is a freelance writer and illustrator with a master’s in pimento cheese. She is the art director and deputy editor of Southern Cultures, and her illustrated book Road Sides: An Illustrated Companion to Dining and Driving in the American South was published in 2019. Find more of her work at eewallace.com.
The idea struck some as odd at first. Nevertheless, Lloyd and Frances Shore persisted. Now, a crowd gathers every May in Durham County to spoon up a special kind of camaraderie — and, of course, beans.
You get what you get and you don’t fuss a bit. That’s the golden rule at a home-cooked Sunday supper. But at a buffet, the meal is all about choice — turnip or mustard greens? Fried chicken or ham? Mac ’n’ cheese or macaroni salad? — even if you choose a little of everything. These five restaurants know that on Sunday, a full plate is a full heart.