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Murphy to Manteo: Finding new adventures, historic detours, and the soul of North Carolina on the state’s longest highway: U.S. Route 64. Read the series. Trains are loud. This may
Murphy to Manteo: Finding new adventures, historic detours, and the soul of North Carolina on the state’s longest highway: U.S. Route 64. Read the series. Trains are loud. This may
Murphy to Manteo: Finding new adventures, historic detours, and the soul of North Carolina on the state’s longest highway: U.S. Route 64. Read the series.
Trains are loud. This may seem obvious. Everyone knows trains are loud. But I didn’t realize how loud they are until now, standing a few feet away from one on the Cary Station platform as the engine comes barreling down the tracks choo-chooing, my 1-year-old son watching, his eyes wide as saucers. I brace myself for a wail … that never comes.
I watch James’s face, still waiting for a delayed reaction. But his eyes don’t brim with tears; his hands don’t reach for Mama. He ignores me completely and stares, transfixed, at the shiny silver Carolinian, his little mouth an “o” of wonder. He lifts his chubby arm and points. “Wassat?” he asks.
An Amtrak employee assists travelers at Raleigh Union Station. photograph by Charles Harris
I barely have time to answer because, as the train screeches to a halt, I’m suddenly aware of how much stuff I have, along with this wiggly boy I need to unstrap. I’m wondering how I’m going to safely hold him while also folding up our bulky stroller and hauling it — and us — onto the train. Just as I start to panic, an angel in an Amtrak uniform appears and tells me she’ll handle my gear; all we need to do is find a seat. We could hug her, but we don’t, because James is covered in cracker crumbs.
• • •
For the past year, I’ve been racking up miles on the odometer as I crisscross North Carolina via U.S. Highway 64, looking for new adventures and novel ways to experience our state. But only recently did I realize Route 64 itself was also a jumping-off point for another kind of statewide adventure — and I can hear its choo-choo from my house.
From Cary Station, just minutes away, I could board a northbound train to Raleigh, then travel to Rocky Mount, staying parallel — more or less — to 64. Or I could veer off in a new direction, cross state lines, and continue up to New York City on the Carolinian. I could head southwest to Charlotte, with half a dozen stops in between, on the Piedmont line. The possibilities for exploring suddenly seemed endless.
Ultimately, I decided to start small. My passport may be full of stamps, but these days I plan outings around nap times. I figured a single train stop would be the perfect test ride: A quick trip from Cary to Raleigh, three hours to explore, then back home for a nap — maybe for both of us, depending on how it all shakes out.
• • •
Minutes after boarding, James is in his own cushy seat beside me. The Carolinian sounds its horn once more, and I brace both of us as it lurches forward. As we pick up speed, swaying slightly, James pulls himself up to look out the window at the bare trees, his eyes and mouth still wide with awe. I squeeze closer, there to catch him if he tumbles. He excitedly slaps the window with a flat palm. He bounces up and down. He squeals with delight as the world outside rushes by, and I give thanks that the train car is nearly empty — aside from a man who helps me stuff my diaper bag overhead, an older woman who smiles broadly at us, and my Amtrak angel, who walks by and says, “Cute!” under her breath. I exhale and finally let myself relax.
The conductor comes by to scan our tickets, and James grins when he sees the man’s black cap. Soon, we’re passing the State Fairgrounds, then leaving it behind in a blur. I’m vaguely aware of the cars that we zip by at traffic lights, and it feels like we have a secret cheat code. We fly through NC State University’s campus, pass beneath the Boylan Bridge, and the capital city rises up ahead of us.
And then, as suddenly as it began, it’s over. I check my watch: Just 12 minutes after boarding, we’re gently screeching to a halt at Union Station in downtown Raleigh.
At Raleigh Union Station, Amtrak travelers are greeted with sweeping views of North Carolina’s capitol city. photograph by Brian Strickland
As I grab James and my bag and step onto the platform — our stroller already unfolded and waiting for me and a final “cute” directed our way — I find it’s my turn to be amazed. We arrived here in less time than it would take to drive, didn’t have to contend with any city traffic, and didn’t have to worry about parking! A huge grin spreads across my face as we glide through Union Station, airy and modern with its shiny concrete floors and soaring ceilings.
We exit into the Warehouse District and walk a block to CAM Raleigh, the contemporary art museum. We stroll through Nash Square. We people-watch on South Salisbury Street — James loves to wave at strangers, and to point and say “wassat” to every squirrel, bird, and truck he sees. We warm up in shops like Deco, and I pick up pastries and hot coffee at Lucettegrace. And all the while, I can’t get over the convenience of traveling downtown by train. The luxury of just being at our destination with almost zero effort.
Opened in 2018, Raleigh Union Station is multiuse, with its lofty, modern design attracting weddings and corporate events in addition to Amtrak travelers like the writer. photograph by Charles Harris
When it’s time to catch our ride back to Cary — on the Piedmont this time — I’m an old pro. We move right on through, thanks to more Amtrak angels. The horn sounds, and as we steadily pick up speed, the track clacks beneath our wheels and Raleigh disappears behind us in a blur of buildings and trees. James is right beside me, both of us watching the world roll by.
Maybe, for our next trip, we can head down to Charlotte. Spend a day in Rocky Mount. We could go anywhere together. But we have plenty of time for that later. For now, he holds tightly to my hand as the engine hums toward home.
All aboard! Find five itineraries for your own North Carolina train trip at ourstate.com/nc-by-train.
Mark our words: Whether they nod to North Carolina or were penned by its residents, these notable, quotable passages remind us of the power of speech inspired by our state.
A historic Rose Bowl pitted Duke University against Oregon State in Durham. Then, in the dark days of World War II, those same football players — and a legendary coach — joined forces to fight for freedom.