May 2012

“Fish was Fried”

Back before it was broiled, scalloped, or étouffée’d, there was only one way you got your seafood: golden brown, crispy, and piled high. And back before fresh fish found its way to grocery stores inland, there was only one way to get it: You had to go to the beach.

The Hope of Fish Town: Wanchese Fish Company

If it isn’t a hurricane, it’s the price of gas. If it isn’t a bad spawning season, it’s a closing inlet. In Wanchese, it’s always something. But Mikey Daniels — the leading son of the leading family here — spreads nets all over the world and proves that even small-town fishermen can always find a way.

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