In the 1970s and ’80s, Western Sizzlin Steakhouse was the place to get perfectly charred rib eyes, T-bones, and beef tips, and to indulge, in my eyes, in the champion of salad bars in Greensboro. The interior was a slice of Americana, with wood paneling, dimly lit wagon wheel chandeliers, and burgundy upholstered vinyl booths — almost romantic, but I wasn’t there for love. At least, not at first.
In 1984, I accepted an offer to be assistant manager at Western Sizzlin. The steakhouse had opened 13 years prior, and while I had worked at restaurants in college, this was my first role in management.
Watch as Lynn Wells prepares her Sirloin Beef Tips With Peppers & Onions.
Weeks before starting my new position, the senior assistant manager, Chip Wells, requested I come in for a meeting. Soon after I arrived in my best preppy outfit, a tall man with a crew cut and full mustache appeared wearing dark-rimmed glasses, black pants, and a white shirt. His expression and attire were stern and somewhat unimpressed.
I’d later find out that Chip thought I wouldn’t last 10 minutes. But not only would I last, I’d actually rotate work in the dish pit, cut fries, order inventory, oversee schedules, and clean the grills.
Chip and I were competitors first, then agreeable colleagues, then friends who’d go out for a beer after work. Somewhere along the way, those drinks turned into dates.
Wells married her steakhouse sweetheart, Chip, who would slip her love notes while they worked together at Western Sizzlin. This March, they will celebrate 40 years of marriage. photograph by Matt Hulsman
We kept our relationship top secret for more than a year at work. To hide our affection, we’d pass notes back and forth through the service window. Often when Chip was working the grill, I’d hear, “Lynn, you have an order in the window.” That was my cue to hustle back and check the ketchup packet bin. I’d open the note to find anything from a date request to a drawing of a sweet pea, Chip’s nickname for me.
Somewhere, hidden in one of the closets of the Greensboro home we now share, are a few of those notes, plus some letters I saved that Chip wrote me after he transferred to another restaurant location out of state.
Although Western Sizzlin closed more than 20 years ago, Chip and I still have the menu memorized. Sometimes, if we’re hosting a double date or feeling like a special meal at home, I’ll say, “You know what would be good? Some beef tips with peppers and onions cooked medium-rare.” Now I’m the grill cook, but everything I learned, I learned from Chip.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 4 servings.
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 pounds top sirloin or New York strip steak, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 large sweet red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced into bite-size pieces
1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and sliced into bite-size pieces
1 medium purple onion, cut into thin wedges
1 teaspoon mesquite steak seasoning
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
In a small bowl, whisk together Worcestershire, vinegar, brown sugar, 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, and garlic. Pour marinade into a plastic food bag with sirloin tips; refrigerate overnight.
Remove sirloin from bag and discard marinade.
Heat a tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add sirloin tips in a single layer to hot skillet. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes for medium-rare, up to 5 to 7 minutes to your preferred doneness. Remove from pan and allow sirloin tips to rest.
Return skillet to stove. Over medium heat, add peppers and onions. Season with steak seasoning and black pepper to taste. Cook for 5 minutes, scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook until edges are browned and just fork tender. Add the sirloin beef tips back to the pan. Stir until heated through.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 4 servings.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
3 pounds fresh baby spinach,
stems removed if preferred
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ cup heavy whipping cream
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
¼ cup vegetable stock
½ cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Salt and pepper, to taste
In a large stock pot over medium heat, add butter and onion; cook until onion becomes translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes.
Reduce heat to medium-low and add fresh spinach. Cover with lid and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in garlic powder, heavy cream, cream cheese, vegetable stock, parmesan, and nutmeg. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
photograph by Matt Hulsman
Yield: 6 servings.
4 to 5 medium beets
½ cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ teaspoon salt
3 whole cloves
Preheat oven to 375°. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
Wash beets and cut off all but about an inch of the greens. Save the greens for sautéing at another time.
Wrap beets individually with aluminum foil, making sure to seal the edges. Place the beets on the sheet pan and bake for 1 hour or until a knife moves easily into center of beets.
Remove the beets from oven and carefully peel away foil. Place cooked beets into a large bowl with ice water. Remove skin from beets with either a hand towel or paring knife.
Slice the beets into ¼-inch slices. Place beets into pint-size glass jars.
In a saucepan, add vinegar, water, garlic, salt, and cloves. Simmer for 10 minutes. Let liquid cool, then pour over beet slices. Secure lids and refrigerate beets for 1 to 2 days before serving.
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