Boat south across the Albemarle Sound from Elizabeth City, and the large expanse of water narrows into Bulls Bay. Slow your speed as you navigate the blackwater, weaving past forested swamps and wetlands. As the banks narrow into the Scuppernong River, you arrive in the tiny town of Columbia, a place worth slowing down for and savoring.
Most people traveling by car pass right through Columbia on their way to and from the Outer Banks. But those who know to stop or come to town by boat are rewarded with friendly people, great food, world-class art, and some wonderful little nooks to explore.
Experience history and charm with Harbor Towns Cruises on the Albemarle Queen. This remarkable vessel is ready to host your next event or gathering as we tour the beautiful Albemarle Sound, from corporate events and fundraisers to weddings and private parties.
Take your time browsing the shelves of gifts, locally made goods, and eclectic home décor at Inner Banks Mercantile. photograph by Katie Myrick Photography
An essential first stop is Inner Banks Mercantile on the corner of Elm Street and U.S. Route 64. Before you shop, make your way through the maze of home goods, jewelry, and books to the back of the store for an expertly prepared coffee or espresso drink and a sweet treat. If it’s a hot day, an iced coffee, made extra cold with iced coffee cubes, hits the spot.
“Columbia is just a jewel of a waterfront community,” Nancy McKaig says. Originally from Durham, she purchased a waterfront home in Columbia with her partner, John McCann, in 2020. “The people are magnificent, but there was nothing much to do. Columbia needed a place to get a cup of coffee. And to gather.”
Catch up with guests and watch downtown life unfold from the porch of Blue Juniper Inn. photograph by Katie Myrick Photography
She transformed an old winery building into Inner Banks Mercantile, making it a place where people can shop, gather, enjoy live music and open mic nights, and hold events. In June of 2024, she and McCann opened Blue Juniper Inn on Main Street.
“I’m a big believer in small towns,” McKaig explains. “I want to be a part of what it takes for this small town to thrive.”
Pocosin Arts School of Fine Craft, a world-class fine-arts center, is at the heart of Columbia. In addition to serving the local community, it’s a destination for artists who come from around the country to attend its workshops or participate in its artists in residency programs. The campus includes studios, lodging, and dining facilities for the staff, artists in residence, and students, as well as Pocosin Arts Gallery on Water Street, which is open to the public.
Shop for hand-carved wooden duck decoys, antique tools, and vintage gems at Maggie Duke Antiques. photograph by Katie Myrick Photography
In an old warehouse and mercantile building on Main Street, Maggie Duke Antiques is packed with historic finds. The owner Tim Nielsen prides himself on his stock of early antiques, including 18th-century eastern North Carolina furniture and silver. He also has a wealth of decoys and vintage goods, not necessarily antiques but throwbacks to a simpler time, like obsolete 1950s transistor radios, watches, and tools.
Down the street is Columbia Theater Cultural Resources Center, in the restored theater that showed movies from the 1930s to the 1960s. In 1998, Partnership for the Sounds opened a museum within the theater that focuses on fishing, foresting, and farming — the main ways of making a living in this area of the state. You’ll see artifacts from the theater, a Model T Ford, a pound net boat, an animatronic fisherman, and more. There’s also a gift shop.
Discover the history of and culture behind eastern North Carolina’s core industries at Columbia Theater Cultural Resources Center. photograph by Katie Myrick Photography
You might not consider a hardware store a day trip destination, but Helen Craddock of the Tyrrell County Visitors Center says not to miss Pledger Hardware on Main Street.
“It’s an old-school hardware store and it’s fun to go inside and poke around,” Craddock says. “You might find something you need, like a doormat or rubber boots or fishing tackle. You might hear a good story too, and they have the coldest canned drinks in town.”
Dig into down-home barbecue with all the fixin’s at Stick Burnin BBQ Company. photograph by Katie Myrick Photography
By now you’re certainly hungry, and downtown Columbia has three particularly tasty options.
Stick Burnin BBQ Company on Main Street specializes in classic Southern-style barbecue, including pulled pork, chicken, ribs, and brisket. With red-and-white checked tablecloths and a roll of paper towels on each table, the setting is perfect for digging into smoked meats and comforting sides. Don’t miss dessert, especially the banana pudding.
Next door to Stick Burnin BBQ, you can get your fill of tacos, quesabirria, and burritos at Tienda Mexicana Peniel #2. photograph by Katie Myrick Photography
Next door is Tienda Mexicana Peniel #2, an authentic Mexican grill incorporating flavorful meats and beans into tacos, enchiladas, burritos, and more. The on-site grocery sells refreshing Mexican paletas and ice cream.
If you appreciate down-home cooking, you’ll want to check out Columbia Crossing on the corner of U.S. Route 64, across Elm Street from the Mercantile. Longtime employee Patty Gederberg has taken over the beloved local establishment, keeping the country cooking, daily buffet (except Saturday), and Friday night seafood specials. You’ll love the memorabilia decorating each room in this large establishment.
Learn about the wildlife and history of Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge at the visitors center within Walter B. Jones, Sr. Center for the Sounds. photograph by chapelhilltar/iStock/Getty Images Plus
A large part of Columbia’s appeal is its peaceful riverfront setting. Head toward the riverfront, and you’ll find a gazebo and benches for resting by the water. To explore more of the river, meander along the .75-mile-loop Scuppernong River Interpretive Boardwalk. From downtown, follow the boardwalk under the bridge and into the shady depths of a cypress forest, where the light filtering through the leaves turns dappled and the air is filled with the scent of tannin-rich waters and sounds of cheerful songbirds. A variety of wildlife — possibly turtles, alligators, or river otters — can be seen from the boardwalk and overlooks, and there are interpretive signs along the way.
Along the boardwalk, stop in the Walter B. Jones, Sr. Center for the Sounds to explore the interactive displays about the history, wildlife, and management of the nearby Pocosin Lakes National Wildlife Refuge. The gift shop has wonderful nature-themed souvenirs. Next door, the Tyrrell County Visitors Center is a place to get information about the area and explore another little shop filled with locally themed gifts.
If you have time before heading home, follow the boardwalk back toward Main Street, and veer off onto the side streets to see the 1903 courthouse, homes, and churches. Columbia has several homes dating back to the late 1800s and early 1900s, when it was a thriving lumber town. A lot has changed, but the small-town spirit remains.
“Columbia is a nice, laid-back town, with a turn-of-century downtown, friendly people, and places to enjoy nature,” Mayor James Cahoon says. “It’s just a good place to visit.”
Explore more ways to tour the Inner Banks waterways with our guides to other harbor towns:
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North Carolina’s celebrated homes and historic districts are never more beautiful than by candlelight at Christmastime.
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