My pockets are full of shells — garnet-red scallop halves; trumpet-shaped tower snail shells; smooth, opalescent moonstones. Chink, chink, chink. They jostle gently with every step, my feet sinking slightly into the sand. Ahead of me, Masonboro Island’s undisturbed beach stretches south for miles, the morning haze casting a gauzy softness over Carolina Beach on the other side of the inlet. The shore — empty of people but awash with shells — promises more treasures ahead, but I peek at the time on my phone; I have to get back to the boat.

Ask the front desk about reserving a beach chair and umbrella and let them handle set-up for you. Photography courtesy of Trailborn Surf & Sound

I return north and cross the dunes to reach the Intracoastal Waterway, where my ride, the Carolina Runner pontoon boat, awaits. Wild and remote, Masonboro Island feels a world away from downtown Wilmington’s buzz, but only five miles separate the urban beach community from the remote edge of North Carolina’s coastline. Amazingly, my waterfront home for the weekend sits right between the two on an impossibly narrow strip of Wrightsville Beach.

As one of the only sound- and ocean-front hotels on the East Coast, Trailborn Surf & Sound gives guests instant access to both the Atlantic and the Intracoastal Waterway. The beach is on the other side of the hotel’s gracious, Caribbean-esque lawn; across the two-lane road, the property’s dock lets guests launch a paddleboard or embark on one of the boating excursions, like Carolina Runner’s Island Hopper Cruise or a sunset sailing trip around Wrightsville Beach.

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The site of this waterfront hotel has been a landmark for more than 125 years, beginning with the Seashore Hotel in 1897. Over the last century, it’s passed through a few iterations — one of which saw it as The Blockade Runner for the last 60 years — before entering its latest chapter as Surf & Sound. With a full interior renovation, the hotel boasts a new, airy design that blends seamlessly into the coastal surroundings, while touches like the outdoor Blockade Surf Bar and the Carolina Runner boat give a nod to the property’s history. The transition comes as the hotel joins the Trailborn portfolio, a boutique group that specializes in properties distinguished by their ecotourism offerings.

And Surf & Sound does it well: Beyond the view, the hotel offers enough ways to play to make a summer camp counselor jealous. For a waterside weekend that balances all-age adventures with a beach-vacation-level of leisure, may I suggest the following:

The tropical Great Lawn bridges the expanse between the hotel and the beach, creating a lush space to relax and play. photograph by Christian Harder

Day 1: Check In

To the right of the front entrance, a fleet of cream-colored beach cruisers stands at the ready. Make a mental note to ask the front desk about reserving one after you check in. Step inside the lobby, where mid-century modern wingback chairs, sofas, and wooden coffee tables in a warm, neutral palette create inviting nooks to lounge with a spritz from the lobby’s Bar Duna. On the other side of the large, sliding doors, views of the Great Lawn and pool cabanas give way to the dune line that borders the beach.

Book an oceanside room to start the day with views of the sun rising over the Atlantic. photograph by Leslie Ryann McKellar

The property puts its location front and center: Each room comes with a waterfront view, either of the beach and ocean or the Intracoastal (take your pick of watching the sun rise over the ocean or savoring the sun setting into the sound). I highly recommend opting for one of the Surfside Balcony rooms with its own private veranda so that you can enjoy the view from the two all-weather armchairs. Which is exactly what my boyfriend, Simon, does before our bags even leave his hands. “Dang,” he sighs, immediately settling into one of the chairs.

With the balcony door open, a salty breeze pushes into the room. I’m tempted to don the Parachute bathrobe hanging in the closet and collapse on the clementine-colored bedspread, but that will have to wait. It’s time to explore.

Pedal a beach cruiser around Wrightsville Beach

Word to the wise: Flowy, linen trousers channel immaculate island vibes, but they make for a jarring interaction with a bicycle chain. Save those babies for later so you can pedal freely from Surf & Sound around the Wrightsville Beach loop. Boats line the ICW and drift through Banks Channel, and people stroll leisurely across the bridge and along North Lumina Avenue in flip-flops and T-shirts. Personally, I’m on a chicken salad kick, so our ride obviously includes a stop at Roberts for a deli quart of their iconic chicken salad and a bag of chips — a must-do during any Wrightsville Beach visit.

A wide boardwalk connects the Great Lawn with the beach for easy access over the dunes. photograph by Christian Harder

Find a tropical escape in the Great Lawn

Back at the hotel, the sweeping and aptly named Great Lawn creates a lush playscape between the hotel and the beach. A boardwalk winds through a tunnel of juniper, palms, and blooming flowers, and children run barefoot between yard games like cornhole, ping-pong, and oversized Connect Four (I also may have done this, but at least I wore shoes). Hammocks dot the lawn, and perfectly curved wooden lounge chairs and white Adirondacks offer various spots to sit with your late-afternoon picnic and take in the breeze.

Cozy up around Bar Duna with a craft cocktail and selection of small plates. photograph by Christian Harder

Unwind with a drink at Bar Duna

Watch the fiery sunset from the hotel’s soundside dock, then return to your balcony for a front-row view of the moon rising over the ocean. Below, on the Great Lawn, families with young children tote s’mores kits from the front desk to the firepit. Once darkness settles, drift downstairs to Bar Duna. Get the Honey Suckle Soiree (their variation on a Bee’s Knees) or a Sound Side Sour, and tack on an order of marinated olives, warm homemade focaccia, and lamb-and-pork spiedini (grilled skewers) to share.

Rise and shine! Start your morning with Sunrise Yoga on the Great Lawn. Photography courtesy of Trailborn Surf & Sound

Day 2:

Wake up with the sun and stretch

Wake up to the sun peeking above the horizon — you could draw the blackout curtains, but if you’re like me, this ocean view is too good to miss. Brew a cup of Huckleberry Roasters coffee using the gooseneck kettle in the room and wrap up in the robe.

This is the epitome of comfort, I think as I sip my steaming cup on the balcony, watching the crew of ocean lifeguards runs drills in the sand.

If you, too, could use a little movement, venture down to the Sunrise Yoga class on the Great Lawn. The oasis that the lawn was yesterday doesn’t compare to it in the morning, the sunlight soft and the breeze rustling the palm trees. I promise, a Warrior III pose is a little easier when you concentrate on the crashing waves beyond the dune.

Across the street from the hotel, the Carolina Runner leads trips to the surrounding islands in the Intracoastal Waterway. photograph by Christian Harder

Take the Island Hopper Cruise

From yoga, you can head straight for the islands aboard the Island Hopper Cruise. Surf & Sound partners with Soundside WB to lead guided tours that depart from the hotel’s dock and explore the uninhabited islands in the Intracoastal Waterway. On Money Island, you can visit the site where the pirate William Kidd allegedly buried treasure around the turn of the 18th century. Climb the (very) steep sand dune to take in views of the surrounding Bradley Creek and stately homes on Money Point. After you descend the sand dune, let the Carolina Runner lead you beyond Wrightsville Beach’s South End and Shin Creek to Masonboro Island. You have about 45 minutes of free time to explore the protected estuarine reserve on southeastern North Carolina’s largest undisturbed barrier island before it’s time to board the boat and return to the dock.

Towel, chair, umbrella … all that’s missing is you! photograph by Christian Harder

Sun on the beach

Plan for an afternoon of leisure following your morning adventures. You can ask at the front desk about reserving lounge chairs on the beach, and then find them whenever you’re ready. For me, a bottle of sunscreen and book are all the accessories I need, and for added fun, you can rent beach toys and games from the hotel’s Beach Closet to play a friendly match of beach soccer or paddle ball in the sand.

Cocktails by the pool

After soaking up the sun, find some shade beside the pool. The umbrellas’ scallop-edged canopies offer cool relief, but if you’re rolling with a crew (or simply want some personal space), you can reserve one of the poolside cabanas for the day. The open-air, cabana-style Blockade Surf Bar services both the pool and Great Lawn, so ask about the rotating selection of North Carolina beers on tap and order a coconut margarita and “sticky” chicken wings to complete the picture.

Try the octopus carpaccio at La Duna Paradiso. photograph by Christian Harder

Feast on Mediterranean plates at La Duna Paradiso

La Duna Paradiso delivers an elevated, coastal-Italian experience with light preparations of fresh seafood and hand-rolled pasta served in an airy, modern dining room. Simon and I hit the appetizers hard: butter-soft diver scallop crudo, massive juicy prawns, burrata cheese drizzled with raw honey and herb oil, lacinato kale Caesar salad under a shower of crunchy paprika breadcrumbs. After much debate, we opt for the spaghetti loaded with sweet cherry tomatoes and a mountain of blue crab. We share the salted caramel espresso martini for dessert — it tastes like a Caramel deLite Girl Scout cookie, which is to say, perfect.

Day 3:

Bike to SUNdays

Wake up with the sunrise and take one last pedal around Wrightsville Beach. Bike down Waynick Boulevard to South End Surf Shop, the upstairs of which is home to SUNdays Café. Order an iced vanilla latte and cross South Lumina Avenue to sip it on the beach as you watch the anglers start their morning at Crystal Pier.

End your trip on a sweet note with a stack of lemon ricotta pancakes for breakfast or brunch. photograph by Christian Harder

Brunch at La Duna Paradiso

Send yourself home in style by returning to La Duna Paradiso for Sunday brunch. Start with a cold brew or cappuccino from the espresso counter or go straight for a mimosa. Next, a round of raw East Coast oysters followed by lemon ricotta pancakes topped with a seasonal compote and Chantilly cream. Or try the avocado toast, which layers ricotta, smashed avocado, and pickled red onion on an oh-so-fluffy piece of focaccia, plus a soft-boiled egg. For hardier fare, dig into the Hilltop Angus Farms burger or steak and eggs, which come with soft discs of gnocchi alla romana — a delicious end to a weekend by the water.

Ready to experience it for yourself? Whether you want to lounge by the ocean or island hop around the sound, learn more about creating a custom coastal experience at Surf & Sound.