A Year-Round Guide to Franklin and Nantahala

Whether you arrive by boat along the slow-flowing Perquimans River or by car via NC Highway 37, a trip to Hertford feels like easing back in time. “If you want

Rosemary and Goat Cheese Strata

Whether you arrive by boat along the slow-flowing Perquimans River or by car via NC Highway 37, a trip to Hertford feels like easing back in time. “If you want

A Walking Guide to Harbor Towns: Hertford

The boat landing off the Perquimans River in Hertford, NC

Whether you arrive by boat along the slow-flowing Perquimans River or by car via NC Highway 37, a trip to Hertford feels like easing back in time.

“If you want an authentic, old-school North Carolina experience, you’ll find it in Hertford,” says Trish Rand, director of the Town of Hertford’s Main Street Program. Rand grew up in Raleigh and knows first-hand how quickly North Carolina towns are changing, which is why she appreciates living and raising her family in Hertford’s friendly, slow-paced community. “It’s an experience that is fading away, kind of like the North Carolina accent,” she says. “It’s special to see this part of the state and connect with the roots of North Carolina.” 



In addition to that small-town feel, two main draws attract visitors to Hertford: beautiful outdoor spaces and 400 years of history. Originally incorporated in 1758, Hertford thrived as a lumber town and the center of North Carolina’s Quaker community for more than a century. Its national historic district encompasses 219 buildings, including the 1825 Perquimans County Courthouse, the 1848 Church of the Holy Trinity and other churches, downtown storefronts, and beautifully restored historic homes, the oldest of which dates back to 1775.

So plan your day trip, whether by car or boat. “There is a lot of history to explore here, and along the way, there are plentiful shops and eateries in the downtown area to keep you entertained,” Rand promises.

 

Set up for success

On Church Street, downtown Hertford’s “main street,” you’ll find the townspeople getting a head start on the day at Brew 2 Rescue Café. It has all the attributes of a delightful coffee shop with fresh-brewed coffee, espresso drinks, smoothies, sweet and savory breakfast items, WiFi, and comfortable seating. Plus, as a church-operated nonprofit organization, it raises awareness and funds to end human trafficking.

 

Shop for locally made mementos and one-of-a-kind artisan pieces at Perquimans Art League. photograph by Amanda Kielar, Nicole J & Co. Marketing Group

Browse Downtown

No matter where you shop, be prepared for the friendly Southern hospitality of the shopkeepers.

“When you walk downtown and stop in the shops, everybody is going to want to know where you’re from and give recommendations on where to eat lunch,” Perquimans County Tourism Director Stacey Layden says.

Find vintage home decor, antique serving ware, and up-cycled furnishings at Church St. Antiques & Other Cool Stuff. photograph by Amanda Kielar, Nicole J & Co. Marketing Group

Begin at Perquimans Art League on Church Street, which has a gallery of impressive local artwork from paintings and pottery to fiber art and jewelry, plus books by local authors.

A few doors down, Church St. Antiques & Other Cool Stuff offers a trove of antiques, vintage goods, and collectibles, while Hertford Mercantile around the corner on Market Street has all kinds of home goods, Hertford-related decor, and North Carolina-made foodstuffs. Small Town Trendz on Market Street is the locals’ favorite for cool fashion and all kinds of fun accessories and gifts.

 

Historic home in downtown Hertford, NC

Hertford’s historic influences reverberate through town, evident in the beautifully maintained homes and quaint downtown. photograph by Amanda Kielar, Nicole J & Co. Marketing Group

Delve into history

Commanding attention on Church Street, Perquimans County Courthouse is the oldest continuously operating courthouse in the state and it houses the oldest recorded land deed in North Carolina. If the courthouse is open, stop in and see the deed and the building’s original 1825 interior finishes.

Take note of the numerous historical markers in front of the courthouse and nearby, including one for Betsy Dowdy — a teenager who rode a horse more than 40 miles from Currituck Banks to Hertford to warn General Skinner’s militia of a British attack in 1775 — and one for Jim “Catfish” Hunter, a Perquimans County resident who pitched in Major League Baseball for 15 years before retiring with a five-win record in the World Series.

A short walk away on Dobbs Street is the tiny but fascinating Perquimans County History Museum interpreting local history from Indigenous American tribes to Quakers to the legendary DJ Wolfman Jack, who made his home in Hertford.

Afterwards, stretch your legs by exploring the Hertford Historic District, especially along Front Street, and marvel at the beautifully and carefully restored historic homes and manicured lawns.

 

Go where the locals go if you’re looking for cold refreshments and live music in a convivial setting. photograph by Amanda Kielar, Nicole J & Co. Marketing Group

When Hunger Calls

Many people will recommend Woodard’s.

“There aren’t many places left where you can still get a root beer float at a drugstore soda fountain, but you can at Woodard’s Pharmacy in Downtown Hertford,” Rand says.

Park it on a barstool at the old-fashioned counter for an affordable light lunch of a grilled cheese or a chicken salad sandwich and be sure to wash it down with a fresh-squeezed orange-, lime-, or lemonade or even a milkshake.

For a more substantial meal, TNT Grill & Catering serves up authentic soul food like fried chicken, pork chops, fried shrimp, burgers, mac ‘n’ cheese, collards, all-day breakfast, and their specialty, Grubb Street Banging Chicken.

Hertford has two stellar bakeries, and it would be a shame not to try both. Carolina Moon Bakery makes to-die-for artisan breads, pastries, cakes and pies (whole or by the slice), and Thursday is Donut Day. The Farmer’s Daughters Bakery & Market sells sweets such as cookies, cakes, and pies along with savories like sweet potato ham biscuits, pimiento cheese, and sausage balls.

The social center is Hertford Bay Tap House, or as locals call it, The Bar. They offer 20 different beers and ciders on tap and serve more domestic beers by the can or bottle along with wine. Live music and karaoke are offered on the weekends.

With just enough to do and see but not so much that you feel overwhelmed trying to get to it all, Hertford is an ideal day trip destination in eastern North Carolina. Explore the compact historic district, cooled by the river breezes, and follow your nose to find the shops, eateries, and places that’ll have you planning your return trip. 

Explore more ways to tour the Inner Banks waterways with our guides to other harbor towns:

This story was published on Jul 19, 2024

Molly Harrison

A native North Carolinian, Molly Harrison moved to Nags Head after graduating from East Carolina University in 1994 and has worked as a writer and editor ever since. She is the managing editor of OuterBanksThisWeek.com and is the author of several books about the Outer Banks. When not writing, she is on the water or in the woods.